Kökar > Jurmo
As easy as it was to moor at the dock the night before in Kökar, the departure was unique. The dingy away – our chef revved the engine of the dingy as leaned into the bow of the Svanhild, pushing, edging, urging the sleeping giant out of bed. Turned 90 degrees about the started the engine. Fairwell to funny Kökar, and the seeming permanent garage sale at the dock.
It was a beautiful and partially sunny day, we clipped along on our way somewhere? As the American saying a working guest is a happy guest and they indeed let us help. As we paused outside a harbor for the night we had to wait for the ferry to leave before we could come into the narrow area we could moor for the evening.
Landing at Jurmo the first sight I see is someone, loading things into a big brick thing, an oven? It is next to a huge fire wood pile and yes – yes indeed this is Salmon being loaded into the smoker.
Jurmo’s harbor store: A little wood building with a patio out front. Inside the walls lined with every age and provance of liquor bottle. Fresh veggies, beautiful spring onions, cakes, buns, the wafting aroma of cardamom and sweet. They had tourist goods, fancy alpaca yarn presumable from the local alpaca and cute knit goods. Most importly beer!
One can also rent bikes from the store – the island is partially a nature preserve. We met the local alpacas! Very cute, free roaming and they were looking hand outs. We found the tiny church with a ship of course hanging from the ceiling, the wood ceilings curved like a ship are also very nice.
The barren landscape make it hard to imagine living here in the winter but it is a beautiful place. I am sure by kilometers we are not far from larger towns but this feels like some edge of the world, far far away.